The method is disclosed for producing relatively pure ammonium paratungstate from an impure tungsten solution. The method involves first adding hexamethylenetetramine to the tungsten solution and adjusting the pH to from about 1.0 to about 2.0 with a mineral acid to form a first precipitate of a tungsten hexamethylenetetramine product, which is then separated from its mother liquor. The precipitate is then slurried in water and the pH adjusted to from about 7.0 to about 8.5 with ammonia to dissolve the precipitate. The resulting solution is then adjusted to from about 1.0 to about 2.0 with a mineral acid to form a second precipitate of the tungsten hexamethylenetetramine product which is then separated from its mother liquor. The second precipitate is then slurried in a solution of water and sufficient ammonia to form ammonium paratungstate which crystallizes out on evaporation of the slurry. The ammonium paratungstate is then separated from its mother liquor.

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Spinning means that your dart rotates (spins) when you throw it. Some players that have noticed this spin are concerned whether this is okay or a bad thing.

I don't think that spin is a bad thing. It is an additional source for errors, as it is an additional movement, but on the other hand spin also adds stability. In my point of view these two things eliminate each other, so there is no use worrying about it. In no case should you try to consciously make your darts spin or consciously try to eliminate spin.

Spinning has nothing to do with darts tuning. It is not determined or influenced by the flight/shaft system. It is determined by your personal throw.

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Darts tuning is meant to determine a setup for your darts that fits your throw. When I am talking about setup I mean the flight/shaft system of the dart. This system is responsible for the aerodynamic behavior of your darts. It must meet the requirements of darts physics (see the technics section for a closer look at this). The main parameter for determining the correct flight/shaft system for you is the angle at which the dart sticks in the board. Unfortunately you can only see this angle when you are playing on a steel tip board. If you are playing only soft tip then you should switch to a steel board for darts tuning.

correct board angle

The correct angle is within 10 to 60 degrees. Just like in the picture above. The more consistent this angle is, the better. For instance, if every dart of your 3 dart series sticks in a different angle then something is wrong. Most likely does your dart wobble considerably, which can only be reduced by serious practicing. However, using a bigger flight shape will also help here as it adds stability.

Generally, bigger flights ("standard" shape or bigger) will give a greater angle, while smaller flights (such as "pear" shape) will give smaller angles. Note that when you are doing darts tuning always use the same shaft for comparison between flight shapes. Shaft length and shaft material have a strong effect on the flight/shaft system.

Also note that shaft weight (or even flight weight!) also have influence on this angle. The heavier the shaft or flight is, the smaller the angle will be. This is important when you decide whether you will use nylon or the heavier aluminum or titan shafts. The shaft rings can also influence this, as they make the shaft heavier.

Darts tuning needs work and patience. It should be done over a couple of days to eliminate possible daily variances in your throw. A good starting setup for darts tuning is middle length nylon shafts with "standard" size flights. From this initial setup you can continue working, depending on whether your angle is too big or too small.

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There are some options for outs with 2 darts left in hand. A dart thower need to respectiving single's  treble and take right way. The first region from 101 to 110 contains 4 numbers that can be shot out with 2 darts over the bull's eye. Here we go :( Trebles, doubles, singles: T20: treble 20D20: double 20 20: single 20 orT13: treble 13D13: double 1313: single 13and so on...)

2Dart Outs 110 - 101

T20 - D15 means: first dart treble 20 second dart double 15 (no third dart given: 2-dart out shot)

110 best option T20 - D2

107 best option T19 - D25

104 best option T18 - D25

101 best option T17 - D25

2Dart outs 100 - 71

Within this big range all numbers require a treble + a double. This table is pretty much like the usual "out charts" you might know, with the one exception that I give more variations when possible. For a better understanding of outs it will be very helpful if you compare these options with those options given for 3-dart outs. If there are differences, try to understand why!

100 best option T20 - D20

98     best option T20 - D19

97     best option T19 - D20

96     best option T20 - D18

95     best option T19 - D19

94     best option T18 - D20

93     best option T19 - D18

92     best option T20 - D16

.....

This is the "magic" number range. If you want to have a "guaranteed" dart at a double then you have to go for the single that leaves bull's eye.

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The grip is the most variable part of darting technique. In general you can use here what's comfortable for you. There are only a few DON'Ts you have to be aware of.

 The technique to grip dart:

You simply have to find your own grip. Everything that meets the requirements and can be handled well by you is good. Don't simply copy other players. Work it out on your own. You can of course try grips of different people for curiosity, to compare and find out which parts of it could fit you, or to learn about technical connections and improve your knowledge on this, but you are an individual, and grips are as individual as people. Don't get used to the habit of trying to find your 'weekly new and revolutionary grip'. Try for a while, find a suitable one, and then practice and use it.

The picture shows my standard grip - 3 fingers on the barrel (the 4th finger is not touching, although it might look like this on the picture). The small finger is spread away slightly.

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Not all kinds of grips are usable on different kinds of barrels. So it's obvious that longer barrels force a more finger grip, while less fingers must be used for short barrels (well, that's just simple-minded reasoning). Not only do you have to find your right grip, you also have to find your right barrel. These things can of course only be seen combined, and reversely. Just another issue of personal preference.

The picture shows thatgrip a shorter barrel is often no problem to use the same grip on a different dart. 3 fingers touch shorter barrel the barrel which is more ton-shaped and shorter -- 4 fingers wouldn't fit on the dart here.

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Pencil - Phil Taylor: Phil holds the dart in the common pencil-grip. This grip is as good or as bad as any other one, as long as you can keep the dart pointing forward and not too much sideways. The pencil grip is the second most used after the lot of basic grip variations. It usually requires a thin cylindrical barrel, like used by Phil.

Wide open hand - Dennis Priestley: Dennis used to keep his fingers in a nearly vertical shape and does all the required stabilization only by his thumb. He closed the hand a bit more when I last saw him an video, but he is still the one with the most open hand I know. The grip looks very loose, a good advantage when it comes to exact release, but also a good chance to lose control in accelerating. How he maintains his touch with this grip is a complete miracle to me and seems to be only known by him. When I tried this grip I actually had problems hitting the board. He is either naturally gifted with it, or he has worked on it for years. A grip on the extreme side. Dennis uses a thicker more ton shaped barrel, somewhere between Phil Taylor and John Lowe.

The pictures show the "pencil" grip from different angles.The pencil gripis widespread and good to use, at least good enough for world champ Phil Taylor.

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Low Co ultrafine grain tungsten carbide ball has hardness, red hardness, wear resistance, than conventional ultrafine grain tungsten carbide ball higher, in the field of precision mechanical, thermal recovery wells, which are more unique advantages.

Low Co ultrafine grain tungsten carbide ball of WC grain size is small, large surface area, low Co content, the amount generated in the liquid phase sintering process is far less than conventional tungsten carbide, WC particles are difficult to be completely wetted liquid alloy sintered densification difficult; and ultrafine grain tungsten carbide ball of choice WC powder and Co powder small size, high activity during the sintering process is prone to the phenomenon of abnormal grain growth, thus losing the properties of ultrafine-grained materials. In order to suppress the ultrafine-grained WC grain growth, there are mainly two ways, one is to add grain growth inhibitors, such as VC, Cr3C2, Mo2C, TaC, NbC and TiC and their appropriate combination, but the results achieved are not satisfactory; the other is the use of low-temperature sintering process quickly, minimizing the sintering temperature, sintering time shortening, such as spark plasma sintering, microwave sintering, SHS, the effect is more obvious.




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Because of WC-Co cemented tungsten carbide ball with high hardness, high strength, high wear resistance, low thermal expansion coefficient, relatively good oxidation resistance and corrosion resistance and other characteristics, making it widely used in corrosion and high temperature and wear field. Because cobalt and tungsten carbide has the best wettability (contact angle is zero) to cobalt as a binder sintered carbide best overall performance, therefore, WC-Co cemented tungsten carbide ball got first the most in-depth research and application.
WC with high hardness, Rockwell hardness of up to 94 HRA, and has excellent ductility and Co, and for very good wettability WC, tungsten carbide can promote densification. The combination of WC and Co cemented tungsten carbide ball made under stress conditions, the skeleton formed by the WC grains can withstand great pressure, exhibit high hardness, and Co as a binder phase through deformation energy absorption, inhibit crack propagation, showing high toughness. So WC-Co cemented tungsten carbide ball also has excellent transverse rupture strength and hardness, has maintained a wide range of applications.




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Bucking bar is a work tool received behind work surfaces to provide a backing member in applying impact fasteners and including intermitted toolhead and handle parts with a low-recoil impact-absorbing spacer provided there between to take shock loads.

Bucking bars are used on the backside of a metal rivet to counter the force of the hammering on the other side. They also can be used to absorb the force of rivet guns, reducing the vibration of bucking.

Bucking bars used to form bucktails on rivets. And come in many different shapes and sizes. They are normally made from an alloy steel similar to tool steel. The particular shape to be used depends upon the location and accessibility of the rivet to be driven.

The size and weight of the bar depend on the size and alloy of the rivet to be driven. Under certain circumstances, and for specific rivet installations, specially designed bucking bars are manufactured locally

Tungsten Heavy Alloy bucking bars are resulting in a bucking bar of the same weight but half the size. Bucking bars are used in rivet setting to upset the shank of the rivet. Tungsten Heavy Alloy bucking bars reduce the recoil when reflecting the impact back to the rivet shaft.

Higher density reduces vibration and kick back while bucking. Take a cue from the pros and use what they use. We carry a full line of standard bars and can custom build bars to your specifications. All bars have smooth faces and rounded edges and corners for ease and safety in handling.
Contact us for more information about tungsten heavy alloy bucking bars! Any orders or inquires will be greatly welcomed!

According to the investigation for different bucking bars of the same shape but different materials and mass characteristics, use of heavier but same sized tungsten bucking bars can reduce vibration transmission to the hand.

In a word, tungsten bucking bars are VERY useful for bucking rivets and will make your life much easier in the build process.




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