Ammonium metatungstate applied in the manufacture of various petrochemical catalysts, It's the basic raw material of W-base catalyzer used in oil refinery.  

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There are some several suggest for dart practice:

In nearly all settings, a shared set of darts is used, rather than every competitor having their own darts. So if you were to retrieve the darts you just threw, all you would then do is immediately hand them to the next player. With that in mind, it is simply quicker for the incoming shooter to remove the darts from the board, rather than the awkward process of the preceding shooter removing them, then (carefully) passing a handful of three sharpened steel darts to the next player.

The next player can view and verify the score of the preceding player. This eliminates the need for a scorekeeper to stand near the board.

Dart maintenance supplies (like a potato, for moistening the dart tips, or a sharpening stone) are often kept at the board. Thus requiring every player to go the board before they throw rather than after, allowing him or her prepare quickly in the darts practical.

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The thin wires separating the scoring sections on the board occasionally overlap slightly, due to the manufacturing process. Any dart splitting the wires (landing in the tiny area where two wires overlap) is credited in the shooter's favor. For example, if the dart splits the wires separating the two and three point zones, the player is awarded three points. If the dart splits the wires separating the three point zone and the blue ring, the player is credited with three points.

Since the shafts of the darts are made from wood, and the tips are sharpened metal, it is possible for a dart to stick into the shaft of a previously thrown dart. The scoring of any dart is determined by where the tip of the dart lands, and since the tip of this dart is not in the board, the dart that is stuck in the barrel of another scores no points at all. It is considered the same as if it missed the board.

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The key rule of Strikeout is that the first dart to land in the 20-number scoring area sets that shooter's "number" for the remainder of the inning. Once that number is set, that number is the only number that can be scored for the remainder of the inning (with the exception of the center cork, which is always in play, regardless of the set "number"); the other nineteen numbers on the board are worth zero points for the remainder of the shooter's inning. So if a player throws his or her first dart at 20, in order to score the maximum possible points, but he or she misses and it lands in the 1 area, that player has established 1 as their number for darts #2 and #3. Thus, even if the last two darts were to land in 20, they would be scored as zero. Once a player establishes a poor number, the best strategy for the remainder of the inning is to just shoot at the 100-point cork, since even three darts in triple 1 would score only nine points. If the first dart does not land in one of the 20 scoring numbers (either misses the board completely, or hits the 100-point cork), the "number" is not yet established for that inning, and the shooter is still free to score in any of the 20 numbers on the second dart (likewise for dart #3, if both darts #1 and #2 do not land in any of the 20 numbers).

Since the first dart sets the number, players will sometimes shun shooting at the 20, since a small miss will result in either a 1 or a 5 being set as the number. Often two adjacent numbers with solid values, such as 11/14 and 10/15 are chosen by lower-skilled players, since a small miss there does not result is such a large penalty (if you miss the 14 you'll still land in the 11, etc.).

The maximum score in an inning is 300 points (3 corks). The maximum score for a team (two players) is 600 points. Corks and scoring numbers can be combined; for instance, if a player shoots a double 20, a cork, and a single 20, that player would score 160 points (40 + 100 + 20). If a player shoots a single 20, a double 5, and a single 20, that player would score 40 points (20 + 0 + 20), since the dart in the 5 would not count (20 having been established as the "number" for that inning).

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Soft tip darts are different; you will need to check with your local leagues for the weight requirements. At the time of this posting, 16 grams darts seem to be a safe bet no matter where you are throwing. You can get a heavier soft-tip dart, but some leagues and tournaments may ban them due to the construction or restraints of the machines that are being used. An opponent can challenge the weight of your dart if is too heavy.

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Dartboards are made of sisal fibres; less expensive boards are sometimes made of cork or coiled paper. However, several types of sisal fibre are used in dartboards today, originating from East Africa, Brazil, or China. Despite widespread belief that some dartboards are constructed using pig bristles, camel hair, or horse hair, there is no evidence that boards have ever been produced commercially from these materials.

A regulation board is 17 3⁄4 inches (451 mm)in diameter and is divided into 20 radial sections. Each section is separated with metal wire or a thin band of sheet metal. The best dartboards have the thinnest wire, so that the darts have less chance of hitting a wire and bouncing out. The numbers indicating the various scoring sections of the board are also normally made of wire, especially on tournament-quality boards. The wire ring on which the numbers are welded can be turned to facilitate even wear of the board. Boards of lesser quality often have the numbers printed directly on the board.

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There are a number of differences between an "American" board and a traditional  "Englih" Board in useing board made of basswood grain. High-quality boards have rotatable centers that can be turned so the board will wear more evenly.

Embedded in the board are thin steel wires that separate the board into scoring sections, as opposed to the wider steel dividers placed onto the surface of traditional boards. On those English boards, the wider steel makes it much more likely that the dart will hit the steel divider and bounce off onto the floor. Since the dividers on an American board are  thinner (usually around 1/100 of inch), and they are completely pressed into the surface, it is extremely unlikely that the dart will bounce off from hitting the steel.

The scoring areas on an American Darts are also laid out differently from an English board. The center bull eye (or cork) on an American board is one section; there is no "inner" and "outer" bulls ye. Additionally, unlike the English board, the triple ring is not halfway between the outer edge and the bulls , rather triple is itself on the outer edge, and the double ring is directly adjacent to it, just inside the triple ring. The remainder of the board is the single scoring area. The bulls ye is colored red, the single area is uncolored, the double ring is red, and the outermost triple ring is uncolored. The entire scoring area is bounded by a large out-of-bounds blue ring.

The number sequence (20, 1, 18, 4, etc.) is the same as on an English dart board.

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1. When trying to buy darts, usually you should chose flights and shafts and buy a normal setup. If this is your first set, then you can use the middle length shafts and standard flights

2. Never buy a dart only because it looks so good. Never buy a dart you haven't tried before. This is the strongest point for you buying darts by mail order. Of course, if you desperately want this one for suit your teammate, then you had buy numerous of 180s

3. Checked if the barrels of your chosen setting have the same weight! This is very important! A good shop must be equipped with scales. Darts should be within 2/10 of a gram. E.g. a set with 22.1 gr, 22,2 gr and 22.3 gr is acceptable for a "22gram" set. A set with 21.8, 22.0 and 22.2 is not. You should do this for every setting that you buy, no matter how expensive it is. Some of the well-known companies give you a guarantee that the darts are within a certain weight range (Unicorn for instance guarantees within a third of a percent), but this doesn't mean the setting actually suitable range. The guarantee only says that the darts are replaced when you discover a weight range outside the guarantee.

4.Money should not be an argument. Buy what suits you, not what's expensive. Expensive doesn't necessarily mean better (only exception is movable tip darts for steel tip). If you like that $10 set buy it. If it's the $100 set that feels best, then get it if your wallet allows.

5.When looking for your first bristle board. Manufacturer doesn't really matter for you in the first board. "Bristle Board" is the key phrase. Your first bristle board will guide you at least through the first year of dart practicing. Whether you combine it with a fine dart cabinet or place it on the kitchen door is up to you, but you should look for a chalk board of any kind. As long as it's a bristle board, there is no problem getting one via mail order.

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There are some barrel shapes we can chose in the market of dart.

The barrel forms is the main part of a dart. When we are speaking of "buying a (new) dart" we mean getting a new dart barrel. Nowadays barrels are available in almost every possible shape, with a wide selection of knurl or rings on the surface for a comfortable and safe grip.

It's not possible to say which one is the "right" one. Based on a very theoretical reasoning the long cylindrical barrel could be the best of them because it is the slimmest and allows the tightest grouping. But this reasoning doesn't help you when you are not able to handle such a barrel. Selecting the right shape is a matter of personal preference. Choose what feels comfortable for you. This is much more important than an abstract or "academic" reasoning about theoretical advantages or disadvantages of some shapes.

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